Displaying a free spirited atmosphere in a
beautiful old neighbourhood in Amsterdam, the Red Light District offers a
voyeuristic and hedonistic experience which will enchant you instantly. The
district boasts of lovely canals, majestic buildings, and a culture of freedom
illustrated through its inviting dreamy coffee shops, and the lovely working
ladies.
Before my first trip to Amsterdam, I had
heard numerous stories about its number one attraction worldwide: the famous or
rather infamous Red Light District or the “De Wallen” neighbourhood in
its own language. As you can imagine, most of the stories involved sex, drugs,
and a lot of rock roll partying in a sea of wilderness and joy. Being a young
man of temptations myself, I couldn’t resist giving it a little discovery, and
see with my own eyes whether this dreamy hedonistic environment really exists.
I embarked on a plane leaving London with four
English friends descending at the Schiphol airport, and immediately took the
first train north to Amsterdam. We had basically planned a crazy weekend with
the five of us in Amsterdam to celebrate the birthday of one of my friends and
explore the Amsterdam nightlife. Having heard so much about it, the Red Light
District was one of the main areas on our ‘must see’ list. We booked an
apartment (through www.shortstay-apartment.com)
on a crowded street right in the middle of De Wallen, which is conveniently located
only ten minutes away from the Central train station. After checking in, we
immediately started exploring the neighbourhood.
To our own surprise, we immediately
realised that the Red Light District is much more than a libertine place where
women of various nationalities target their clients from the window of a one
room flat. Of course, these activities make the district world renowned but in
a nutshell, the Red Light encompasses anything you can think of: from cosy
inviting coffee shops where you can indulge in marijuana tasting, to arty cafes
and bars, brothels, live sex show places, beautiful old authentic buildings,
dark imposing churches, lovely canals crossing the area, and of course tourists
coming from the four corners of the world to enjoy freedom. Indeed, the De
Wallen area is the most known and popular red light district out of the three
that exist in Amsterdam, and is a major tourist attraction. If you take a
stroll at night, you will realise that the later it gets, the more crowded the
neighbourhood becomes with persons interested in taking a voyeuristic stance by
checking the girls in the windows.
Historically, the Red Light District dates
all the way back to the 14th century when it was initially made of many
distilleries catering to the sailors working or coming to Amsterdam from abroad
via the large harbour. The amazing architecture that can still be seen all
around the district is the legacy of the early medieval times where the norm
was to create winding small streets surrounded by tall and imposing gothic
buildings. In the 17th century, the merchants moved out of the district, and
paved the way to pimps and prostitutes becoming a new market for the sailors
who were heading in the area in the quest for ladies, alcohol, and fun leisure
times. Up to today, the area has kept its allure of freedom and adult
entertainment, the prostitution finally being legalised in the year 2000.
Although one would expect such a free
spirited environment to be associated with dark underground activities, I was
astonished to notice the complete orderly way the district functions with
police holding a discrete yet constant presence, and the entire neighbourhood
functioning under precise rules. For instance, while checking out the beauties
in the window tiles, I could not help notice that even their presence was
carefully arranged based on either ethnic or thematic lines, the Eastern
Europeans working on a specific street, the afro-american women on another one,
the Dutch contingent on a different side of the canal, while the transvestites
on another part, among other categories. One area that I especially enjoyed was
in the proximity of Amsterdam’s oldest church, the Oude Kerk, a black imposing
old building that can be visited for only €5 if you want to combine mysticism
with the wild pleasurable side of life. Right behind the Church, I discovered a
small square with a few cafes including an inviting coffee shop while right
next to it, a small alley takes you the most tempting side of the Red Light
District where you will find it very difficult not to indulge into a wild
adventure with one of the top model alike beauties smiling at you from inside
their cabins. By the way, as a tip of advice, if you want to learn more about
prostitution in the Red Light District, and how to approach the ladies, a
specially designed Prostitution Information Centre is available till late at
night where very friendly staff will guide you through the common sense
procedures. (Located at
Enge Kerksteeg 3,
www.pic-amsterdam.com)
After
barely resisting temptation, I decided to stroll further, and check out the other
attractions in the De Wallen area. As mentioned previously, the Red Light encompasses
much more than its wild sex and voyeuristic side. The area is also one of the
richest parts of Amsterdam with charming residential apartments found in old
buildings where doctors, lawyers, and high class families make a very good living.
In addition, you can stroll around the
streets in the search for one of the most striking old buildings in the area, the
Waag or the Amsterdam Weigh House. Nowadays home to a lovely restaurant on its
ground floor, this building dates all the way back to 1488 when it used be the
place where the cargos leaving the ships were weighed before being sold at the
nearby Nieuwmark (New Market). If you are looking for a fresh market place for
vegetables and fruit, the Nieuwmarkt square is the place to be where you will
also discover a large array of various cafes and restaurants so make sure you
enjoy a bit of time off by chilling on a terrace, and admiring the diverse lively
crowds walking through the area.
Other attractions in the Amsterdam Red
Light District include the famous Chinatown with a real taste of Asia in the
heart of Europe, as well as the numerous and very different coffee shops where
you can step out of any stress you may have, and indulge in smoking the pipe of
peace with some of the local grown special weed or hash flavours. The Red Light
district becomes even more vibrant the later it gets with a large selection of
dancing bars and clubs opening their doors for a wild night to remember. One of
my favourite venues has been the Winston club where the live music beautifully
played by local talented artists bring the indie music straight to your ears,
especially after a few strong joints.
All in all, my experience in the Red Light
District has surpassed my initial thoughts as a place confined to sex by
illustrating a free and open minded neighbourhood where everything is allowed
as long as it is done with common sense, and while respecting the Dutch law.
Inevitably, I have returned many times, and cherish it as one of my favourite
parts in the amazing city of Amsterdam.
What NOT to do in the Red Light District:
a. do not take photos of the women working
in the window shops as they prefer to remain anonymous, and you would be
immediately yelled at, and asked to delete the photo
b. avoid talking to anyone offering you
drugs in the street as you will most likely be either cheated and/or not given
what you have been offered in the first place
c. watch out for pickpockets who can easily
operate in such a crowded and touristic district
d. do not over smoke yourselves – know your
limits :)
How to get to the Red Light District
Leave
the Amsterdam Central Station, cross on Stationsplein, and turn left on the Zeedijk.
Continue up to Niewmarkt until you reach the imposing De Waag Building. At this
point you will find yourself right in the epicentre of the Red Light District.
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